You have made it to the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, Lisbon’s finest viewpoint, away from the crowds. The natural wine bars of Príncipe Real (Black Sheep) and Campo de Ourique (Red Nose) are both excellent, but they are a taxi ride away. If you want natural wine within walking distance of the miradouro, at retail prices, with someone who can guide you through a selection of fifty-plus references, there is exactly one answer.
-> Also: where to watch the sunset in Graca with a glass of wine
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte: Lisbon’s best-kept viewpoint
While the Miradouro da Graça and the Portas do Sol draw long queues on summer evenings, the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte remains one of Lisbon’s best-kept secrets, the most complete panorama in the city according to many locals. The castle to the west, the Tagus to the south, the distant hills of the Serra da Arrábida on clear days. It rewards a slow visit. The only thing it lacks is a bar.
POP: the only natural wine shop in the area, 100 metres from the viewpoint
On the Rua da Senhora do Monte, a short walk downhill from the miradouro, POP is a wine and gourmet store that has become one of Lisbon’s most quietly celebrated addresses. It is the only natural wine shop in the Graça neighbourhood. Unlike the wine bars of Príncipe Real or the Bairro Alto, where a glass comes with a bar price attached, POP is a shop first: retail pricing, fifty-plus references ranging from crisp whites (Fiuza Lavasas, Darei, Fitapreta) to structured reds (Kompassu, Lalinha, Quinta do Piloto), pet-nats (Raza, Terrunho) and rare vintages. Owner Elliot knows every bottle personally.
-> Read our natural wine guide for beginners
Taste here, take it up the hill
Taste in the shop, choose your bottle, and head up to the viewpoint with a proper glass. POP lends glasses to customers heading to the miradouro. Pick up something to eat alongside the wine: muxama (Portugal’s prized cured tuna in elegant vacuum-sealed tubes), Tricana conservas, or artisan cheese. A few slices of muxama drizzled with olive oil, a glass of natural white, the city spread out below: a better evening in Lisbon is hard to imagine, at a fraction of the price of any wine bar terrace in the centre.
A neighbourhood worth exploring
Graça is one of Lisbon’s most authentic neighbourhoods: hilly, residential, full of old tiled facades and local cafés that have not changed in decades. A different Lisbon from Chiado or Alfama, and one that most visitors never find.
POP, Rua da Senhora do Monte 38C, Graça, Lisbon. Open daily from 2pm.